Scotland: Edinburgh and Beyond

DAY 1: If time allows, come early (or stay late) to explore Edinburgh. Built over centuries on seven hills on a narrow spit of land, the city begs to be discovered on foot. The Edinburgh Castle watches over the city from its perch on Castle Rock. Lined with charming historic landmarks, cafés and stores selling kilts, the Royal Mile connects the castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, one of the Queen’s official residences. If that doesn’t keep you busy, visit the St. Giles Cathedral, the Royal Botanical Garden, and the National Museum.

Our starting hotel was a 19^th-century convent and is east of the city center but easily accessible by bus, train or taxi. It’s also a 15-minute walk from lovely Portobello Beach if you’ve tired of the bustling city. We’ll meet at 3:00pm for a rental bike fitting, followed by orientation and dinner together. 0 miles. 

DAY 2: We’ll begin our cycling by leaving Edinburgh this morning on a bike path and then continuing on part of the John Muir Way. This route stretches more than 150 miles and is named for the naturalist and co-founder of the Sierra Club. He was born in the seaside town of Dunbar, which is our destination for the night. 36 miles.

DAY 3: Today’s ride takes us along the dramatic shoreline of the rugged Berwickshire coast with its towering red cliffs and rocky outcrops. Heading inland, we can lunch in the market town of Duns, home of Manderston House, the luxurious Edwardian estate that was the setting for the popular PBS mini-series, Manor House.

We’ll end in the charming town of Kelso. It sits at the confluence of the rivers Tweed and Teviot and is known for having the largest market square in all of Scotland. We’ll stay two nights on the cobblestone square in an eccentric historic landmark originally built in 1769 as a stagecoach inn. 41 miles. 

DAY 4: Today’s loop ride takes us east and south into gently rolling rural farmland. We’ll bike through the picturesque villages of Yetholm Town and Kirk Yetholm before stopping at the Teviot Water Gardens & Smokery. If you choose to have lunch after exploring the lush gardens here, be sure to try the Cullen skink (a thick soup featuring smoked haddock) or the smoked kippers!

Once back in Kelso, you can choose to visit the 18th Century Floor’s Castle, Scotland’s largest inhabited house and home to the Duke of Roxburghe. Take a tour and see how the palace has evolved over time, get a glimpse of how the noble family lives today, and admire the beautiful view over the River Tweed. If you want to go further back in time, you can also visit the ruins of the Kelso Abbey. Dating from 1128, it was once a large and rich monastery. Today, it remains one of the most spectacular examples of Romanesque architecture in Scotland. Take all the time you need, as dinner is on your own tonight. 26 or 33 miles.

DAY 5: From Kelso we follow the River Tweed west to St. Boswells, a sleepy little village with an inviting bookstore and an award-winning butcher shop, the perfect place to try the quintessential Scotch pie, a double-crusted savory pastry filled with mutton or lamb. 

Along the way, you can choose to visit the Jedburgh Abbey founded in 1138. Its long and varied history is filled with kings, popes, fires, misfortune and a benevolent spirit called Fat Lips. The home of Mary Queen of Scots isn’t far away too and the 16^th-century tower house helps tell the story of this tragic queen. 30 or 39 miles.

DAY 6: Our loop ride takes us through Melrose today with its ruined Abbey dating from 1136. This grand ruin dominates the town and is said to be the site where King Robert the Bruce’s heart lies buried, which just adds to the drama.

We’ll also stop to see Sir Walter Scott’s House at Abbotsford. The ornate mansion has everything from a Chinese Drawing Room to a huge library filled with more books than you knew a person could own, to the desk where he wrote such famous lines as, “Oh, what a tangled web we weave….”

If you prefer a more hilly ride, you can always choose today's longer loop and be rewarded with stunning views of the Tweed Valley. 21 or 33 miles.

DAY 7: Today, we’ll follow the River Tweed to another quaint town on its banks called Peebles. Along the way, we’ll get a stunning view of Yarrow Valley and stop at Traquair House, the oldest continuously inhabited house in Scotland dating from 1107. You can walk through the hedge maze or simply sample the beers from the onsite brewery.

Our next stop will be Robert Smail’s Printing Works, a living museum of the last working Victorian letterpress printer. You can even try your hand at typesetting the old-fashioned way. We’ll end the ride the same way we began earlier in the week — on a beautiful paved bike path. We’ll celebrate our tour through The Borders and The Lothians regions of Scotland at our final dinner together tonight. 31 or 41 miles.

DAY 8: We’ll enjoy our last Scottish breakfast this morning and then make the one-hour trip back to Edinburgh to say our goodbyes. We should arrive at the airport by 9:30am. 0 miles.